For those of you following my schedule there has been a slight change of route. We are just south of Jackson, Louisiana so we could try out a new camp site, guinea pigs for ACA. It rained through the night so we woke to an overcast day. I am greatly amused how the threat of rain affects my colleagues, cloud gazing and much discussion of whether to wait or go. Needless to say I don't have that problem and just head out, knowing that if it does rain the worst that can happen is, I'll get wet but it will be warm. It didn't rain but we had an alternating head and tail wind, could have been much worse. The first 40 miles just flew by and I enjoyed the longer distance again, the wheat was no longer swaying but bent over in the wind. Passed an old Colonial type house with colonades, on the porch. Apparently, due to flooding, this house has been moved 3 times. The last time in 1930, they found 8 union canon balls, in the walls. I stopped at an old church built in 1848, the grounds were consecrated by Bishop Polk, the 'Fighting Bishop' of the confederacy. The church is made with handmade bricks and the stained glass windows came from England. I stopped with Todd and Robert M. at New Roads, for lunch - huge plate of fries and chicken/salad croissant. Just eating sooo much, need to watch. Levee's towering above us, at the side of the road, indicated that we were getting near the mighty Mississippi. Then, an imposing bridge loomed and there it was, a big broad muddy river, much photo taking and excitement. Our camp site tonight is the large grounds of a couples home. Like many houses, in the area, the roof is made of metal. This is so it can be securely hammered down, to prevent peeling, in the strong winds. For the first time we had an outside shower,interesting. The garden is decorated with old rusty bikes which is actually quite effective. Moving rapidly across country but.....loving it still....
Sunday, 22 April 2012
The Mighty Mississippi - Jackson 64.1 miles.
Saturday, 21 April 2012
Misty Swamps and Bayous -Simmesport, a mere 46 miles
The only visitor we had through the night was a racoon, raiding our garbage bin, and a noisy owl. Plenty creepy crawlies but no snakes or alligators. There was mist over the fields and bayous ( muddy creek ), this morning, making for an atmospheric start. What fertile land this is - wheat swaying in the breeze, corn and rich rows of 'corn on the cob'. Vast fields of produce. This was a short day of 46 miles so I just meandered along, following the map, until Cottonport, where I sat in the sun, on the banks of a bayou and enjoyed my lunch. Todd and Merv came along so I joined them for the last 10 miles. We noticed some of the houses were boarded up, apparently earlier this month, April 5th , hailstones between golfball and baseball size fell and destroyed the facings on the windows. Also, the wind whipped up and ripped the leaves from the trees. We were lucky to miss that!! Passed huge, thick oak trees planted in 1823, still full of growth and life. Dogs chased me three times, once a pack of 3. Merv beat me though, he had 5 dogs after him. Jon said ' it was so funny', poor Merv pedalling furiously with this trail of dogs behind him. Tomorrow we go through Morganza where the 'cafe scene' in Easy Rider was filmed. We also reach and cross the mighty Mississippi, which in this area, in 1923 flooded 50 miles across. 250 people died and the rescue effort concentrated on white rather than black people. Afterwards, there was a mass exodus of black people to towns like Chicago. Instead of cooking tonight, which he couldn't face, Todd took us to a 'Family Grill' and I had a 'Combo Basket'. Catfish, oysters, shrimps and fries washed down with iced tea. The mileage will need to increase if I keep eating like this, it's a hard life....still loving it....
Friday, 20 April 2012
A Perfect Blue Sky, A Perfect Day - Chicot State Park 51.6 miles.
Left at 7.30am, there was a clear blue sky, a perfect day. Temperatures were pleasant with a light headwind. The route was lovely, passing through a mixture of small homesteads and forests of tall fir trees. In Louisiana, the houses are pretty and the land quite formal in complete contrast to the wildness of Texas. We passed Crawfish fields where the fields are flooded and the fish allowed to grow in the silt. When ready, small boats with back wheels, churn up the fish, the fish are then attracted to meat containers suspended from floats. They can get in but can't get out, so are then harvested. Surprisingly, rice is also grown, alternating fields, every year with crawfish. This is very wet land, if you dig down a foot you hit water. Apparently houses have small stilts and are built on a concrete base, graves are all above ground in slab/tombs. We are camping in Chicot State Park which feels very remote. The toilets are a quarter of mile away, that should be interesting in the middle of the night. I have been warned about poison ivy which can cause severe skin reaction and also snakes - the tent is completely zipped up at the moment, I can assure you. Nearby is a beautiful lake and swamp but we are not allowed to swim because of, guess what, alligators. Aaahhh. I went down and had a look but didn't see any. Hope they don't come visiting in the middle of the night. A really pleasant, interesting day and I only got chased 3 times by dogs. Todd very gallantly kept me between him and this pitbull as we tried to outrun it. He did shout at it which seemed to work - such chivalry. It is 4.40pm, sitting in the shade because of the sun. Dan and Robert M are cooking cheeseburgers etc. .... still loving it...who wouldn't.
Thursday, 19 April 2012
Flying to Oberlin - 61 miles.
Didn't sleep too well last night, what with dogs howling and train whistles shrieking into the night. The romance of the lonesome train is abating somewhat. The museum people were up bright and early and provided a breakfast of scones, sausage, egg flan, delicious fig chutney and white gravy. They shook hands and wished us well. Amazing really. I was in good form today and set off at a brisk pace, mostly flat roads with tall fir trees and small farms on each side. I stopped only once at a store to buy some sweets and use their ' rest room'. All the shops have toilets for public use. I arrived at camp before lunchtime, 1st in, so helped Sean unload the van. I was cooking tonight, chicken with onion, cream, red/yellow peppers, mushrooms and rice so inspected what Sean had bought. Disaster. I had asked for 6 peppers and he had only managed to get one, milk instead of cream, chicken broth instead of stock. I headed back out on the bike to the shops to see what I could find but to no avail. Started cooking about 3.00pm - it takes a while to cook for 14 hungry bikers- and sweltered over a hot stove in an even hotter sun. Dinner was served at 5.15pm and although it wasn't quite the culinery dish I planned went down well. Received a round of applause for my efforts. We crossed the 2000 mile mark today, just another 1200 miles to go. Louisiana takes it name from one of the King's of France, from the French Acadians who penetrated its rivers and bayous to make homes in its almost jungle like forests. The most important river is the Mississippi, which meanders through Louisiana, between ridges of silt built up over the years. The rivers constant desire to explore new banks has proved an ongoing challenge for its inhabitants over the years. Must go now, another fun day of fun, frolic and sunshine beckons tomorrow....still loving it...
