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Monday 30 April 2012
Cycling Gulf Coast, Swimming with Gators - 63.7 miles
I left outer fly open last night and the tent was much cooler but still soaked with dew in the morning. Horrible packing a wet tent. I am so itchy from all the bites and heatspots but hey, the sun is shining on the Gulf Coast, Florida so enough moaning and get on with it. I left Gulf Beach just after 7.00 am and enjoyed the coolness of the morning as I cycled through Pensacola, Pace and Milton. This is an area many of you will be familiar with but as I have never been to America before, it is all new to me. On a quiet Sunday morning I cycled past beautiful houses and promenades hugging the shoreline. I felt I coped better with the heat and humidity of the day. As long as I was cycling I was ok because I created a breeze but get stopped at traffic lights and the heat was oppressive. Took a couple of wrong turns today but the route was very confusing. We had to turn right at Munson Hwy but 3 different Munson Hwy's crossed our path. I arrived eventually but added an extra 5 miles to the journey. We are staying at Blackwater River State Park tonight and when we arrived in camp all went for a swim in the river. Very bravely, I may add, as there was a sign stating 'Caution Alligators'. Families were swimming too so I presume it is quite safe. Anyway, we all survived and no alligators were spotted. Some of the group saw an alligator yesterday, at a creek we crossed, but I haven't see any so far. Feeling fine but have some minor aches and pains - I have tingling in my fingers, probably caused by the constant pressure on my hands and wrists. Anyway as I said, enough moaning....still loving it......
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Sunday 29 April 2012
Florida, the Sunshine State - I've Made It...
Very hot and humid in tent last night, seem to have acquired numerous bites, from goodness knows what but they are very itchy. We all made an early start and caught the 8.00 am ferry to the Gulf Shores penisula. Most of the group decided to head straight for the Pensacola Naval Air Station and Museum but Dan and I visited Fort Morgan instead. It was built in 1831 and had a rich history during the Civil War and was manned during WW1 and WW11. Spent over an hour there then remembered I'm really on a cycle trip so better get moving. It was a short 47.4 miles along the gulf coast, winding over high bridges, flat roads with water on each side. Beautiful holiday homes all built on stilts but knowing the weather history of this area, you can't help but feel they are temporary. Poor Spike was in need of some TLC so I decided to make a detour to the bike shop in Orange Beach. I had noticed there was a hole in the front gear housing and thought the cable might be damaged. The guys in the bike shop were great, said it would take 5 minutes to replace and only cost 15 dollars all in, about 10 pounds. Well worth it to have peace of mind for the next 10 days cycling. A very hot day today and although a short ride I didn't have much energy. Crossed into Florida, the very last state of our trip, and it was the busiest state line of all. There was one huge street/beach party taking place. Apparently, there is great competition between the Universities of Alabama and Florida and the students meet, at the state line, on certain weekends. I slowly made my way through the traffic and crowds saying 'excuse me, excuse me' in my best scottish accent. We had dinner tonight in a seafood restaurant, I had blackened catfish, smothered in a shrimp sauce. First fish in ages, lovely. Tonight I am sleeping with the outer fly on both sides of my tent open, hoping this will make for a cooler night. Music is blaring from a nearby party, but it is only 9.00pm so can't really complain, might go and join in...... still loving it...
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Saturday 28 April 2012
Sweet Home Alabama - Dauphin Island 70.2 miles
Didn't sleep at all well last night with the cacophony of frogs, ducks, Dan snoring then Todd joining in for good measure. What a racket, it is how I imagine the jungle to be. However another beautiful, sunny day beckoned and I had to prepare my weary self for the ride, 70.2 miles to Dauphin Island in Mobile Bay. Mostly flat roads with a poor hard shoulder which meant traffic came a bit close at times. It is strange now, how 70 miles means nothing to us, we just get on on the bikes and do it. I cycled mostly on my own, I think I covered 40 miles without seeing any of the group. We miss each other as we pop into shops, cafe etc. We passed through the state line and have now entered Alabama, my 7th state. Will not be here long as we leave it tomorrow. The southern states are some of the poorest in the country but on this route there is no evidence of that. We cycled through Bayou La Batre where the shrimp boat scenes in Forrest Gump were filmed. We are right down south in the Gulf of Mexico and to reach the Island had to cycle over a long causeway and very steep bridge. It was lovely to see and smell the sea again. The camp site is next to the ferry port, and it is just like being back home listening to the announcements. We will take the ferry when we leave tomorrow. Out in the bay I counted 8 oil platforms, but there are probably more. As the sun set, I walked out to the point where Fort Gaines is situated, scene of a major battle during the Civil War. Very hot and humid in the tent tonight, and there are midges about, a little reminder of home.....however I am still loving it...
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Friday 27 April 2012
Last Day in Louisiana - a Hot, Hot 73.1 miles to Van Cleave.
Had a good nights sleep in the tent although it is much warmer now. Have quite a few 'lumps and bumps', not sure if they are heat spots or bites. Probably bites as there are a few red ants and mossies about. Very hot early morning with 73.1 miles to cover today. No jumper, just shorts and t-shirts from the start. I usually feel sluggish for the first 25 miles, but not today, I felt rested and strong. The land has really flattened out now, just long rolling roads winding through lush countryside. There were no services so Sean parked the van at a halfway point for snacks and to refill water bottles. Thank goodness. In 73 miles I now have no long stops - today I stopped for a couple of photos and to graze at my packed lunch. I was ambling along when I suddenly spotted a tortoise in the middle the road. I thought, I'll need to help that little guy or he will get squashed. By the time I turned round and cycled back he had made it over. Lisa helped one across too. Tonight we are camping in Van Cleave, Louisiana by a lake and I wish you could hear the racket...as night fell the frogs started croaking...then the ducks started quacking, the noise is unbelievable ....no sleep tonight unless it stops. Tonight we went to a very popular local Cachun Restaurant for our meal. It was wonderful - I had chicken fahitas with salad, guatomole and sour cream. Huge portions. Of interest to some, I asked the guys what type of bike they brought on the tour - the 4 ladies have 2 hybrids, 1 tourer and 1 mountain bike. The 8 men have 5 road bikes and 3 tourers. The 2 leaders have tourers. I have been very happy with my hybrid 'Spike the Bike', fairly light weight with a range of gears capable of coping with the rigours of the trip. Another 70 miler tomorrow and we enter Louisiana...bring it on.....still loving it....although I wish those darned frogs and ducks would SHUT UP.....
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Thursday 26 April 2012
Homeless in New Orleans !!!!
Spent a very comfortable night in a big soft bed. Great. At breakfast I made myself a huge waffle, and smothered it in maple syrup. Makes a change from pancakes, I hear you say. We were staying in the French Quarter which was untouched by the floods. I saw no signs of destruction, apparently it was about 5 miles away and is mostly rebuilt now. I decided to visit the Civil War Museum, a half hours walk away and enjoyed strolling, slowly, through New Orleans, observing its streets and inhabitants, as it gradually awakened. Very friendly people but very tourist orientated. I arrived at the Museum before opening time so sat on the steps and took my shoes off. The biggest black man you have ever seen, wearing a T-Shirt stating, 'Social Volunteer' , stopped and described someone he was looking for. I said I hadn't seen him and as he turned to go said 'You're not homeless are you?' I laughed and said 'No I was a tourist'. I know I haven't ironed my clothes for 6 weeks and I live in a tent but...... The Civil War Museum was old and musty and slanted towards the Confederate side. I was amazed at the smallness of their uniforms and hats. The guide agreed that they were men of small stature. I am told there is still ill-feeling in parts of the southern states and some say 'the war isn't over yet'. Afterwards, I watched a paddle steam ship cross the Mississippi and visited 'Cafe du Monde' again for another 'Beignet'. A farewell look at Bourbon Street then we headed back to camp in the van. Sean said, at one point, he looked round and we were all sleeping. We had Subways for dinner, so no cooking for anyone tonight. Managed to get all my laundry washed and dried, well I thought I should make an effort, get rid of the homeless look. It is very hot in the tent tonight, with a lot of creepy crawlies about. Enjoyed my two days off but it takes you out of the 'zone'. Back in harness tomorrow, another 75 mile day looms..... loving it still.....
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Wednesday 25 April 2012
The Magic of New Orleans.
We left for New Orleans about 9.00 am and it took us over an hour to get there. Travelled over huge long bridges spanning lakes lying neat the Gulf of Mexico . Clear blue skies and sunshine, great to have a day off after 11 days of cycling. First stop enroute was a bike shop to have Jon's wheel checked out. Poor Jon he has had over a dozen flats - that's what you get for bringing a light road bike. We checked into a Best Western Hotel deep in the heart of the French Quarter of New Orleans then headed out. First stop was Bourbon Street just a few blocks away. Long, narrow streets with houses packed tightly together. Balconies overflowing with flowers and plants. Bourbon street has many tourist shops and every kind of pub or club you can imagine. Headed down to Cafe du Monde where I sampled a 'beignet', a soft pastry coated in icing sugar. Absolutely delicious. Wandered back to the hotel just soaking up the atmosphere of being in New Orleans. People very friendly and chatty, if you catch their eye they say 'hello, how you doing'. In the evening Dee and I went to a nearby restaurant for dinner, I ordered a local dish - fried catfish with fried green tomatoes. Over a glass or two of wine we had a good gossip about the tour and put the world to rights. Back at the hotel Dan and I thought we would return to Bourbon Street and sample the night life. What a laugh we had, every pub/club had a band playing, street entertainers a plenty. We met Dave, Sean and Merv then bumped into Jon and Lars. Lastly we met Todd who just happened to be out for a wander too. Great atmosphere, good fun. I had beads put round my neck which poor Dan had to buy, then some guy threw beads from a balcony. Really enjoyable, fun day with more to come tomorrow..... still loving it....
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